Whirlpool Duet Front-Load Washing Machine Repair Guide.

Duet Washing Machine Troubleshooting
So your Duet washer has a gremlin?! Well that happens, a little too frequently if you ask me...
The good news is Whirlpool Duet washing machines have a diagnostic mode to help troubleshoot what's the problem with your washer.

Here's the tricky part… There have been several washing machines that Whirlpool has chosen to name Duet. The Whirlpool think tank must be music lovers or something… This Duet washer repair guide is for the latest direct drive version.

This Duet Washer repair guide is for the following core washer models
WFW70HE, WFW80HE, WFW81HE, WFW94HE, WFW95HE, WFW96HE, WFW97HE (Non Steam)
WFW8640, WFW86HE, WFW8740, WFW87HE, WFW88HE (Steam)

Troubleshooting Common Duet Washer Problems 

Duet Washer Won't Turn On
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds to attempt to reset the Duet washer control.
Attempt a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test
Check the power supply at the wall with some other device. If the wall plug has power...
Check the Duet Line power filter
Check power at the control.

Duet Washer Won't Start
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds to attempt to reset the Duet washer control.
Attempt a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test
Does The Washer Have Power? => No Look at "Duet washer wont turn on" (one up)

Duet Washer's Door Won't Lock
Duet Washer Wont Unlock
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds to attempt to reset the Duet washer control.
Attempt a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test
Check the Duet door lock. (Duet Door Lock Check)

Duet Washer's Door Won't Unlock
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds to attempt to reset the Duet washer control.
Attempt a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test => Washer will not do a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test
You can manually unlock the washer by removing the top (remove screws on the back of the top panel and slide the top panel back to lift off. then with the washer unplugged reach down and pull a small ring on the top of the door lock to manually open the door lock.
Check the Duet door lock (Duet Door Lock Check)

Duet Washer Won't Fill
Start with the easy stuff…
Duet Washer Wont Fill fish
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds to attempt to reset the Duet washer control.
Check your home water valves
if your fill hoses have a flood stop check valve turn the water off, disconnect the hoses and run a little water into a bucket. Then reconnect the hoses to your washer and do a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test.
Check the Duet water valves (Duet Washer Valve Check)

Duet Washer's Drum Won't Rotate
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds to attempt to reset the Duet washer control.
Attempt a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test
Check the Duet Motor and motor control unit (Duet Motor Check)

Duet Washer Leaking
The most common cause of a Duet washer leaking is a hole in the washers door boot / bellows. However, a leak can come from many of the washer's parts. the best way is to narrow your problem down… is it leaking all the time, even when the washer is off? (valve or water supply) or only when the washer is running? (hose, drain pump, door boot / bellows) Visually inspect the washer for the source of the leak… be careful of moving parts that may remove your parts!
Duet Washer Vibration
Make sure your Duet washer is on solid footing… can you rock the washer by pressing on one of the corners.(adjust the washer legs)
Does the washer go out of balance EMPTY during a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test? No => What if you have a heavy load of like items (all towels) on a short normal cycle? If it can balance an all towel load, your problem is probably load related. (Read the users manual) If it is off balance empty or the all towel load went off balance move to step #3.
Press down on the inner drum and feel for a popping movement (The inner drum support may be broken… this is bad) Try rotating the drum a few degrees and try several times… the inner and outer drums should move together as a unit. Sometimes the three point support that suspends the inner drum inside the outer drum can crack. If there is movement you may need a new inner wash drum.
Unplug the washer and remove the back panel to check the tub shocks. They should all be attached.
If all that checks out your probably safe to replace the washer's shocks.

Duet Washer Not Cleaning Well
Duet Washing MAchine Cleaner
Your washer can get extremely nasty inside in places you can't see. Try leaving the door open a crack when the washer is not in use and make sure to use the Clean washer cycle from time to time. Run a Duet Washer Quick Diagnostic Test and make sure that the washer is mechanically working correctly. If it is then you may want to try a different detergent.

Stinky Duet Washer
Duet Washer Stink
Whirlpool has made big improvements with the new Duet washers to reduce odors with an improved venting system. Hoverer, the clean washer cycle is there for a reason! Your washer can get extremely nasty inside in places you can't see. Try leaving the door open a crack when the washer is not in use and make sure to use the Clean washer cycle from time to time.

Duet Washer Won't Drain
The most common Duet washer problem
Duet Washer Wont Drain
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds to attempt to reset the Duet washer control.
Enter the Duet Washer Diagnostic Mode and check for error codes.
If your Duet washer has an F9E1 or SUDS error code (long drain) you may want to skip passed all the fill steps to step C07 (to test the drain pump.) This will hopefully keep your beloved Duet washer from filling with more water that it can't drain. You can't skip C00 (Door Lock) and C03 (Dispensing System) and go strait to testing the drain pump.
Whirlpool Duet Washer Drain Pump
The best way I have found to deal with the water when your washer's drain pump isn't working is to use a shop-vac and pull from the drain hose. If that works the your pump is highly suspect. If it doesn't work then you almost certainly have a clog in your Duet washer's drain system and the pump may be fine.
If you can hear that the pump is trying to drain, you know it's getting power from the Duet control like it should. Remove the pump and check for blockages. If the drain pump is not even trying to run you will need to check power supply to the pump for 120VAC when it should be draining. at the Duet control's DP2 connection and at the drain pump.

Source: http://applianceassistant.com/

Read More

Appliance Foams: Overcoming the Next Blowing Agent Challenge through Optimization

It is important to note that there is no “perfect” blowing agent.

The appliance industry is rapidly facing another environmentally mandated change in polyurethane blowing agents (BA). This means that the currently used class of blowing agents used in developed countries (HFCs), and their predecessors (HCFCs) still being used in less developed (Article 5) countries face imminent transition.

While the industry has become quite adept at transitioning from one generation of BA to the next, it has not been without tremendous compromise in efficiency and economics, not to mention the tremendous amount of man-hours expended optimizing formulations in making these transitions.

For instance, the thermal insulation capability of each successive generation of BA (Table 1) has been poorer than its predecessor. They also have had varied boiling points, solubility, flammability, and stability. These affect foam properties dramatically and increase the challenge toward optimization.

Methyl Formate (based on patented technology) is a good choice as a blowing agent because of its low molecular weight, low gas lambda (Table 2), and favorable economics. But it has strong solvency (slightly stronger than HCFC-141b), which (like 141b) can affect dimensional stability and compressive strength if not properly formulated for. Similar optimization is/was needed for both molecules.

Why is optimization so critical? Many formulators, in their initial evaluations of a blowing agent candidate, simply “drop-in” one or more candidates for the original BA. It has not been evaluated with the proper surfactant (or proper amount perhaps), or the proper polyols (in the case of increased solubility of the BA). This was indeed the case in moving from CFC-11 to HCFC-141b. It took formulators nearly two years to properly address the increased demand on the polyol system introduced by the stronger solubility of 141b.

Another factor that is critical for the efficiency of the foam is thechoice of the right surfactant. The surfactant influences the cell size, orientation, and flow characteristics of the foam—but most importantly the thermal conductivity (k-factor) of the foam! A change in solubility caused by a change of the blowing agent will affect the surface tension of the foam cell windows—and dramatically affect thermal conductivity of the foam. Equally important to the type of surfactant is the amount of surfactant used…to much or too little can result in poorer lambda values.

Optimization is always required.

Even something as mundane as the catalyst package and amount used (speed of reaction) can dramatically affect critical foam properties. The following initial study based on MF blowing agent run by an outside lab dramatically demonstrates this:

Methyl Formate based Appliance System Evaluations – Physical Testing Discussion

Background

The following details outline the runs for the evaluation of initial MF based appliance systems. The objective of the trial was to evaluate standard process and property parameters as part of 1st stage development used to benchmark against existing HFC-245fa based foam systems.

Based on all gathered PT results, the following can be concluded:

Comparison to standard results:

K-factor values for the three systems are higher than what would be expected of a standard HFC-245fa based appliance system.

Normalized compression modulus is somewhat comparable to what would be expected, however compression strength is lower than the standard.

S1b had slightly better dimensional vacuum values at 1.85 lb/ft3, therefore free stable density might be somewhere in the range of 1.90-2.00 lb/ft3 core density.

Core/fill ratio for the group were in the range of 0.75-0.81 which is below the standard of 0.90. This value is especially important in terms of total foam usage. Higher values are characteristic of more efficient foam usage as it will not require as much foam to achieve a certain core density.

Adhesion for these systems was determined to be acceptable and comparable to standard appliance systems.

Based on Flow Index, MF systems flow better than the standard 245fa system.

Overall, greater cross-linking and running at a higher index would benefit both the dimensional stability of the foams as well as the strength.

Observations between systems:

Addition of catalysis to S1improved K-factor, cell size, cell content, and normalized compression strength.

The same relationship can be seen when S1 component temperature was increased from 70°F to 77°F on run day 1. Foam cell structure/cell content improved as a result of faster reactivity.

S1b overall was the best performing system of the group in all areas of foam performance.

Bear in mind that these were initial investigatory runs made with MF foam blowing agent. MF has a slightly stronger solvency than even HCFC-141. Because of this, formula changes such as greater cross-linking and running at a higher index benefits both the dimensional stability of the foams as well as its strength.

Further optimization of these formulas has demonstrated improved dimensional stability, compressive strength, and thermal properties allowing MF to be competitive with current blowing agents.

Today we are faced with yet another transition, from Generation 3 HFCs to other alternates(including Generation 4 HFOs, Table 4). It is important to note that there is no “perfect” blowing agent. There never has been, nor will there ever be! Each has its merits and its shortcomings. Each has allowed the polyurethane industry to grow, by optimizationof formulations for the BA then being used.

The HFOs bring improved gas lambda values back to the table. However, it is not without some challenge, as those candidates are higher in molecular weight (i.e., more is required on a molar (MW) basis to achieve a desired density). For instance, to produce an equivalent density foam, it would require 130.5 parts of HFO-1233zd versus 70 parts of Cyclopentane—nearly twice the quantity. That, concurrent with an additional disparity in pricing, steepens the challenge.

The future choice of blowing agents for the appliance industry will require diligent work today to address these unknowns, and to optimize each of the above candidates into successful appliance foam formulations. The time to start is now. May the best candidate win!

Read More

Repairing Power Cords and Plugs

Major appliances have many components in common, making repairs easier. For example, once you've learned to repair a power cord on a refrigerator, you can apply the same skills to repairing a washing machine's power cord.
The following sections explain common devices that are used on major appliances and offers tips on how to repair them.
Power Cords and Plugs
Many appliance "breakdowns" are really due to worn, frayed power cords or plugs that no longer make proper electrical contact. To ensure safe operation, you should check all appliance cords for problems periodically and replace frayed or broken cords immediately. When you suspect a cord is faulty, remove it from the appliance and test it with a continuity tester. Clip the tester to one blade of the plug and touch the probe to one of the two wires -- or, if it's a plug-in cord, insert the probe into one of the two holes -- at the appliance end of the cord. If the tester lights or buzzes, move it to the other wire or hole and test again. Repeat this procedure to test the other blade of the plug. If the tester lights or buzzes at every test point, the cord is not faulty; if it fails to light or buzz at any point, the cord or the plug is faulty. You can pinpoint the defect by cutting off the plug and testing the cut end of the cord; if the tester lights or buzzes at all test points now, the plug is the defective part. The damaged component -- cord, plug, or both -- should be replaced.

Often, the hardest part of replacing an appliance cord is determining how the appliance comes apart so that you can remove the old cord and attach a new one. Sometimes all you have to do is remove the cover from a connection box. In other cases, as with a small hair dryer, the unit itself must be partially disassembled before you can reach the terminals. In nearly all cases, the cord is held in place by a clamp or by a fitted strain-relief device. To remove the cord, unscrew the terminal screws or pull the pressure connectors apart, loosen the clamp or remove the strain-relief device, and pull the cord out. Installation of the new cord is simply a reverse procedure. Be sure to save the strain-relief device and replace it on the new cord. If you damage the strain-relief device when you remove it, replace it with a new one of the same type.
In some equipment, the conductor ends are looped around terminal screws, making new connections easy. Carefully strip off the outer insulation (not the insulation on the inner wires) for about 2 inches at the end of the cord. Then, using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each conductor wire. Twist the exposed filaments of each wire clockwise into a solid prong. Loosen the terminal screws and loop each bare wire end clockwise around a screw. Tighten the screws firmly. Connect the wires at the appliance end of the new cord the same way the old wires were connected.
If only the plug on a major appliance is faulty, you can attach a new plug to the old cord. Male plugs, with two blades or with two blades and a grounding prong, plug into an outlet. Female plugs, often used at the appliance end of the cord, have terminal holes instead of blades. Male plugs can usually be taken apart so you can access the terminal screws. Female plugs may be held together by rivets or by screws. Screw-held plugs can be taken apart, but rivet-held plugs cannot be repaired.
When a plug malfunctions, open the plug, if possible, and check to make sure the conductor wires are properly attached to the plug's screw terminals. If the wires are loose, tighten the terminal screw. This may solve the problem; otherwise, the plug should be replaced. To attach a new male plug:

Step 1: Insert the cord end through the plug opening and pull it through for about five or six inches.
 How to Repair Major Appliances
On a two-wire plug, tie a tight underwriters' know with the inner  wires (top). If there is a grounding wire, tie the knot as shown (bottom).

Step 2: Carefully strip off the outer insulation for about 2 inches. Then, using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each conductor wire.

Step 3: Twist the exposed filaments of each wire clockwise into a solid prong. After twisting the conductor ends, tie a tight knot with the inner wires of the cord. Then pull the plug down over the knot, leaving the exposed ends of the conductor wires sticking out. Loosen the terminal screws in the plug.

Step 4: On a two-wire plug, loop each wire around one prong and toward a screw terminal. Loop the bare wire end clockwise around the screw terminal and tighten the screw. If the screws are different colors, connect the white wire to the white screw and the black wire to the yellow screw. On a three-wire plug, use the same technique to connect each of the three wires to a terminal screw. Connect the green grounding wire to the green screw terminal.

Step 5: When the conductor wires are firmly secured to the terminal screws, slide the cardboard insulator over the blades of the plug. If the plug has a clamp-type sleeve, clamp it firmly around the cord.

Source: http://home.howstuffworks.com

Read More

Home Security Appliance Concerns and Solutions.

Technology has made it possible for homeowners to implement home security appliance control systems that monitor appliances and security systems.

One touch automation allows homeowners to control every room in the home. The coffee pot comes on automatically in the morning. The lights come on automatically. When it's time to get in the car and go to work or school, the garage light comes on, lighting the way to the car.

Arrive home at night after dark to find the porch light on. Fall asleep listening to favorite music. Customized home automation routines can easily be created according to family schedules and routines.

A special remote control operates the home security appliance control system center in addition to the television, entertainment center, DVD player, stereo and more. Some systems come with keychain remotes allowing activation from the car.

Some of the things a quality home security appliance control system will allow homeowners to do include:

- controlling appliances, lighting and wall switches

- set up timed events

- set night and day routines to automatically adjust to changes in sunrise and sunset

- control holiday lighting

A good system is user friendly and easy to learn. Wireless systems do not require home rewiring. Special routines can be set for when homeowners are away or the regular routine can continue. Either choice gives the impression that someone is still in residence.

Smart homes, as totally automated homes are often called, are becoming more affordable and easier to operate. Homeowners don't have to fear price or learning curve in adding a home security appliance control system.
Integrating a home security alarm system with the appliance control doesn't have to be expensive or difficult.
Why are homeowners turning to home security appliance control systems? For several reasons, including convenience, control and security.

Using a home security appliance control system saves homeowners time by conveniently automating routine tasks. Watering the lawn, turning on the coffee pot, turning off the coffee pot, turning interior and exterior lights off and on, setting the thermostat for night or day settings, alarming the security system before bed. All of these tasks, and more, can be done automated.

Homeowners with home theater systems can automate turning off the lights, drawing the drapes, turning on the system and starting the movie.

Security and peace of mind are important reasons homeowners implement home security appliance control systems. Automating a home gives the homeowner security in knowing the home conditions can be monitored and viewed from anywhere at any time. If anything goes wrong, an alarm will sound, the homeowner will receive notification, and proper authorities will be notified.
Emergency routine automation lets homeowners rest knowing that if a fire is detected, the system will alert the homeowner, shut down ventilation and gas, light an exit route for any family members in residence and telephone the fire department.
Automation via a home security appliance control system saves money and energy when appliances are on set for needed times only. Lighting, heating, air conditioning, water heaters and other home components use less energy when activated as needed.

Home Security Appliance Control Systems provide several benefits to homeowners. They allow total control of security systems in addition to appliance control. Time and money are saved when appliances run as scheduled instead of all the time. There's peace of mind in knowing home conditions are being monitored at all times.

Credited by: Anders Eriksson

Read More

Appliances: Repair or Replace?

If your refrigerator starts making a racket or your washer stops spinning, you know you’re going to be pulling out the plastic soon. But how do you decide whether to repair your appliance or replace it altogether? Here are a few tips to help you make the right decision.

What went wrong?
When one of your appliances breaks down, try and diagnose the problem. You can hire a service person to do this, or you can try to figure out the problem yourself with the help of free resources like Repairclinic.com, Acmehowto.com and Doityourself.com. These websites are just a few that offer troubleshooting steps for appliances.

Can you fix it yourself?
Once you know what the problem is you can decide if you want to fix it yourself, which is almost always a huge money saver, or if you want to hire a professional. Chris Hall, president of Repairclinic.com, says that most repairs are easier to carry out than people think. If you have wrench and aren’t afraid to use it (and you won’t void a warranty), fixing the appliance yourself may be the best, and cheapest option. Websites such as Howstuffworks.com can familiarize you with the inner workings of just about any appliance you can dream of, and DIY and repair sites such as Repairclinic.com and Diynetwork.com offer step-by-step guides to show you how to repair those appliances.

Should you hire a pro?
Even if you are handy with tools, fixing an appliance yourself isn’t always the best choice. Jill Notini, vice president, communications and marketing for the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers, says that DIYers should keep in mind that if they do attempt to fix their appliance, it could void the warranty—make sure you check first. Also, if an appliance needs a repair that’s beyond your skill or comfort level, then of course you should hire a professional, especially if you need an electrical problem repaired. Electrical repairs should be handled by a licensed professional—playing with electricity is often as dangerous as playing with fire.
Or
Should you just replace it?
Repairclinic.com’s Hall offers a good general rule of thumb for making this decision; if the cost to repair an appliance is about half the cost of replacing the appliance, you should consider replacing it.
Here are a few additional tips to help you figure out the true cost replacing or repairing:
Is there a delivery/removal/installation fee? If you buy a new appliance, you may have to pay for removal of the old appliance and/or delivery of the new one, so add that to the equation. Some appliance retailers will remove your old appliance and deliver the new one for free as part of the sale. (If the seller doesn’t offer such a deal, try asking for it.) There can also be an extra installation change for appliances that use water, like refrigerators, or ones that require work to install, like over-the-range microwaves. Check the store’s policies  before you buy.

If your appliance has a warranty, does it cover labor?
What if your appliance is still under warranty when it breaks down? Hall says that if your appliance is covered by a partial or limited warranty, for example if it only covers the cost of the parts, you’ll still have to add up the labor costs to see if it’s still worth repairing the appliance rather than replacing it. If you have a warranty that covers both parts and labor, then a simple repair may make more sense. Some warrantees even cover a full replacement of the appliance.
Would replacing significantly reduce energy costs? In this era of green technology, you’ll definitely want to factor in how much a new energy-saving appliance will save you vs. repairing your current model. Notini says that new appliances tend to have much lower operating costs than older appliances. For example, she says that replacing an 8 year old clothes washer with an Energy Star model can save up to $135 per year. Factor those kinds of numbers into your repair/replace decision. On the other hand, Hall points out that some appliances, particularly smaller ones such as microwaves, don’t use enough energy to see significant savings if you opt for a green model.

The 3 big appliances that you DO want green versions of are your refrigerator, washing machine, and dishwasher. If you’re thinking of replacing or repairing one of those appliances, take into consideration how much money you can save in the long run by purchasing a new energy-saving model.
How old is your current appliance? If it’s pushing 10 or 15 years, you’re probably better off replacing it, preferably with a green model if one is available.

Everyone wants to make the “right” decision when an appliance breaks down—the decision that makes the most economical sense. As it turns out, finding the right answer is not as agonizing as you might expect. If you can do a little troubleshooting and a little math, you’ll find the right answer to your appliance conundrum in a snap.

Source Link: http://study.com/

Read More